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Arts and Crafts

Carving is a demonstration of the carver's skill; walnut being one of the strongest varieties of wood is eminently suitable for carving and is found in Kashmir. There are several varieties of carving. Deep carving, usually depicts dragon or lotus flower motif, two inch deep or more.




Carpets


Kashmiri carpets are world famous for two things - they are hand made and knotted. Carpet weaving was not indigenous but is thought to have come from Persia. Designs are mostly Persian with local variations. The color schemes differentiate Kashmiri carpets from other carpets. The colors are subtle and muted. The knotting of a carpet is the most important aspect in carpet weaving. In addition to the design of the carpet, the knots per square inch determine the durability and the value of a carpet.





Stretched tightly on a frame is the warp of a carpet. The weft threads are passed through, the "talim" or design and color specifications are worked on this. A strand of yarn is looped through the warp and weft, knotted and then cut. The yarn used normally is silk, wool, or silk and wool. Woolen carpets always have a cotton base (warp & weft) and silk carpets usually have cotton base otherwise silk is used.

Namdas

Far less expensive than carpets are these colorful floor coverings made from woolen and cotton fibers. The fibers are manually pressed into shape. Chain stitch embroidery in wool or cotton is worked on these rugs. 





  
Crewel Embroidery

Chain stitch, be it in wool, silk or cotton is done by hook rather than a needle. The hook is referred as an "ari"; it covers a much larger area than needlework in the same amount of time and has the same quality. All the embroidery is executed on white cotton fabric, pre-shrunk by the manufactures. Tiny stitches are used to cover the entire area, the figures or motifs are worked in striking colors, the background in a single color comprising of series of coin sized concentric circles. These circles impart dynamism and a sense of movement to the design. This work is usually used for making wall hangings.

Crewelwork is similar to chain stitch, but here motifs are mainly stylized flowers which do not cover the entire area. Wool is invariably used in crewelwork and color is not as elaborate as chain stitch work. The fabric is available in bolts and makes good household furnishing.
  
Shawls 




There are two fibers from which Kashmiri shawls are made – wool and pashmina. Wool woven in Kashmir is known as "raffel" and is 100% pure wool. Many kinds of embroidery are worked on these shawls. First, "Sozni" is generally done in panels along the sides of the shawl. Motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, occasionally three colors. The stitch employed in not unlike stem stitch, only the outline of the design is embroidered. Sozni is often done so skillfully that the motif appears on both sides, each having different colors. Second, "Papier-Mache" is either done in broad panels on either side of the breadth of a shawl, or covers entire surface of a stole. Flowers and leaves are worked in satin stitch in different colors and each motif is outlined in black. Third, ari work is also done on shawls.

Pashmina is unmistakable for its softness. Pashmina yarn is spun from hair of Ibex found at 14,000 ft above sea level. It is on Pashmina shawls that Kashmir's most exquisite embroidery is worked, sometimes the entire surface, earning the name of "Jamawar." Not all pashmina shawls have such lavish work done on them; some are embroidered on a narrow panel bordering all four sides, others in narrow strips running diagonally through the shawl.

Pherans  





This garment is somewhere between coat and a cloak. It is eminently suited to the Kashmiri way of life, being loose enough to admit the inevitable brazier of live coals. Men's pherans are usually made of tweed or coarse wool, women's pherans are somewhat stylized, made from raffel with splashes of ari work around the edges.  

A display of souvenirs made out of walnut wood

Carving is a demonstration of the carver's skill; walnut being one of the strongest varieties of wood is eminently suitable for carving and is found in Kashmir. There are several varieties of carving. Deep carving, usually depicts dragon or lotus flower motif, two inch deep or more. Shallow carving, half an inch deep open to lattice work done all over the surface. Semi carving, a thin panel around the rim of the surface, with perhaps a center motif. The advantage of semi carving is that it allows the grain of the wood to be displayed
 







Papier Mache

The designs painted on the papier-mache objects are brightly colored and intricate. These vary in artistry and the choice of colors. Gold is used on most objects, either as the only color or as a highlight for certain motifs. Some of the objects with papier-mache designs are made up of cardboard and wood.



Basketry

Willow rushes that grow plentifully in marshes and lakes in Kashmir are used to make charmingly quaint objects, ranging from shopping baskets and lampshades to table and chairs.  

A replica of a Samovar (Used for brewing beverages and keeping them warm)

Copper and Silverware 



The old city abounds with shops where objects of copper line the walls, the floor and even the ceiling, made generally for the local market. Craftsmen can often be seen engraving objects of household utility -- samovars, bowls, plates, and trays. Floral, stylized, geometric, leaf and sometimes caligraphic motifs are engraved or embossed on copper, and occasionally silver, to cover the entire surface with intricate designs which are then oxidized to stand out from the background. The work known as "naqash," determines the price of the object, as does the weight

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Last Updated on November 2008
  Ravees Mir Says
The inspiration for the creation of the arts and crafts of Kashmir is the paradisiacal land of Kashmir in its physical and metaphysical meaning and expression. The artistic genius of the Kashmiri people as expressed in the fields of literature, poetry, literary images, shawl-making, embroidery, embroidered floor-coverings, wood-work and wood-carving, papier-mache and metal-work has been studied by the author, in the beauty of their composition, history, making and design movement.

The arts and crafts of Kashmir testify to the Kashmiri artist being a true lover of nature. Nature is reflected in the polished mirror of the designs and decorative patterns of ornamentation of the Kashmiri arts. Poetry in form to reach the realm of thought, idea, dream and vision that shows joy in this world as the world is joyful in Him.


The Kashmiri artist or craftsman can afford only two luxuries – the birds and the flowers – which grow wild, and the land holds one in charm by its free beauty. This natural beauty and the beauty of its arts and crafts have made Kashmir famous through the ages.

Also, Sufism, Islamic form of mysticism, has as in the case of the whole of the Islamic world permeated the Kashmiri society, though and literature and the philosophy f the creation of the arts and crafts of Kashmir, which also fulfill though in a meager way the economic needs of the maker. So it is metaphorically the desire for meeting the harmonious lip to express the pain of love, which results in the profound meaning of expression of the Kashmiri arts.

As in the weaving of the poetry of the harmonious beauty of shawls painstakingly, in one of the most difficult weaves of the world, each strand of thread moves in a static medium with such sinuous grace and force of expression as not only to enchant one in its fineness of grace and sensuous beauty but also to speak of the attractive, sensitive and appealing to the senses beauty – which intrigues, charms, captivates and absorbs the one touched and affected by it – of the land from which the materials of making and forming and composing and drawing the shawl spring forth. In a measure of transcendence the radiant and magnificent patterns and designs, in the case of Kashmiri metal-work, take back to the earth – from the material to the de-materialisation of the object afforded by the luminosity and movement of the line of the decorative pattern, though on the surface, to almost make one experience, if you like, something sacred – the bowels of which yield the raw materials and the rocks from which they are extracted. The Kashmiri embroidered rugs display the ‘soofyana rang’, while the wood-work and wood-carving praises the nature by taking it back to the woods. The papier-mache decorative designs in their miniature style of painting portray the verdant green and colorful landscape and the flowers in bloom and singing birds of the beautiful valley of Kashmir.

Nature speaks in the Kashmiri arts and crafts in the language derived mainly from Persian aesthetics a development of Islamic aesthetics – in the expression of the design of the arts; which has certainly taken Islam to be the influence and hence is born of the spirit of Islam itself.

The evolution of the significant and important ornamental design lay-out in Kashmiri arts and crafts is defined by the term arabesque with its centre being everywhere and nowhere to be seen as it is a continuous pattern so intricate as to make the eye tired of detail and carry it in a level of manifestation to the feeling, dream and vision of the transcendental meaning of life. It expresses the unity of existence in the continuous cycle of creation and re-creation with its underlying factor being that the things come and go but what remains constant is this very cycle and this passion and urge and love of creating and creation, celebrated by man by creating himself, as a defiance of nature (by creating a composition of a universe of art) but ultimately realizing his complete dependence upon it in thought, idea, dream, vision and material of existence and creating.

Thus there are levels of manifestation in the metaphorical and aesthetic expression (on the surface appearing to be endless cursive shapes, circles, polygonal figures and arabesque) to be explored and understood according to one’s knowledge and gift of ability to conceive the picture or the painting with its order, beauty, balance and harmony, which is truly man’s existence and which brings forth the expression of art. This beauty, poetry, music and dance of life is a way of bringing about recollection and of awakening within man an awareness of that supreme Beauty for posterity, of which all terrestrial beauty is but a pale reflection, for as Rumi says, as translated by Nicholson, that Kings lick the earth of which the fair are made. For God has mingled in the dusty earth a draught of Beauty from His choicest cup. It is that, fond lover – not these lips of clay – you are kissing with a hundred ecstasies. Think, then, what must it be when underfiled!

And the artist is a lyre whose strings are plucked by the Creator in a musical harmony with the embellishing ornament stylisd to the point of losing all resemblance with nature and obeying only the laws of rhythm – being a real graphic of rhythms with each line undulating in complementary phases, and each surface having its inverse counterpart for a balanced, harmonious composition – of the design of movement or the movement of design. Thus the ornament tries to stop the mind of the onlooker affected by it or the one who appreciates it and is absorbed in it from attaching itself on any particular form. This hindrance is to dissuade and stop one from arranging a definitive saying of “I” as an image says “I”.




Ravees Mir (Gemologist)

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